We are a country overshadowed by our bigger, flashier South American neighbours or confused with Paraguay. So as a small, under-stated country at the end of the world we’re used to relying on ourselves.

Source: Source: EFE/Federico Anfitti

The government acted swiftly. The day the first coronavirus cases were announced in Uruguay — a nation of 3 million people and 12 million cattle — , it ordered the immediate closure of schools and publicly-owned entertainment.

It was March 13, a Friday as it happens. That evening I went to the cinema — for the last time. The 100-year old Solis theatre next door, like all other publicly-run venues in the city, had cancelled the evening’s show and was shrouded in darkness. All football matches had been canceled too. …


Travel writer of best-seller guidebooks to Uruguay and Montevideo. Founder of the Guru’Guay website www.guruguay.com.

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